Discover world class wool

The science of wool

No other material, natural or man-made, has the qualities and adaptability of wool. Science has taught us much about wool and has further developed its use by adapting to modern needs without impairing the fundamental virtues of the fibre.

Wool is more than just a simple strand of fibre! The complex internal structure of wool fibre is the reason wool delivers a myriad of benefits.

Tougher than steel, yet finer than human hair

The internal structure of wool is complex, yet each part works together to create the most incredible super-fibre in the world.

• Cuticle – This is the waxy outside protective layer that has overlapping “scales” and makes wool water-repellent.
• Cortex – This layer makes up 90% of the fibre.  There are two components of the cortex which have different-sized cells on each side.  This creates the crimp, or waviness of wool.  Crimp gives wool its softness, sound absorption, and temperature regulating properties.
• Macro and microfibrils – These are long filaments that add strength to the fibre.  A bit like steel rods in a concrete building, these cells reinforce the fibre while maintaining flexibility.
• Matrix – The special proteins contained in the matrix attract water molecules which means wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in water.  It is the matrix that also removes odour-causing vapour and locks away harmful pollutants from air pollution.  The matrix gives wool its fire-resistant and anti-static properties.
• Helix – Deep inside the fibre is a keratin-based protein chain that coils in a helix shape, much like a spring. This prevents stretching of the fibre and also gives wool its flexibility, elasticity, and resilience.  This means wool can ‘spring back’ over and over again without breaking.  In fact, you can bend wool more than 20,000 times before it will break – you can’t do that with steel!

Discover how the thickness of wool fibre determines its use

A micron (μ or um) is one-millionth of a metre.  In the world of wool, the diameter, or thickness, of one strand of wool fibre is measured in microns. 

Wool from different sheep breeds gives us different thicknesses.  

Merino is one of the world’s most famous sheep breeds and produces low-micron wool.  Wool that is less than 20 microns is called “fine wool” and is often used in clothing due to being very soft.

There are many other sheep breeds in New Zealand, including Romney and Perendale, which produce higher micron wool.  We call higher micron wool “medium” or “strong” wool and it has many uses from blankets, bedding, and mattresses to carpets, insulation, and upholstery fabrics.  Medium and strong wool makes up 80% of New Zealand’s total wool production.  

Learn about microns (μm)